Don't know if this is too late for you, but I stayed in The Victoria Inn at Alston on my second night. The landlady, Tian, was very friendly & did a great breakfast.
They don't sell real ale, but Tian was very quick to recommend the best pub in the village for good beer
Try to avoid rooms at the front of the building though, as you may be woken early by trailers & lorries bouncing on the cobbles outside
